Just because other people can sell you fencing doesn’t mean they have the knowledge and experience that goes with years and years of many different fencing installations like the team at Duncan Equine Group. To help you install a good strong, long-lasting fence we have put together our top tips for you.


1. End/Box assemblies

A strainer post should be half in and half out – so if your fence is 1.2m to 1.5m high fence then same amount of post should be in the ground. The strainers should also be a minimum 3m apart in the assembly.

2. Line posts

Should be 2/3 out of the ground and 1/3 in the ground. They should also be level with your strainer posts. DO NOT CHAINSAW THEM TO HEIGHT!!! Ram them in further!

Line posts should be put in using a wire guideline just above ground level and run between your 2 corner strainers. The good thing about using Horserail is that the posts can be put out to 4 to 5 meters. We don’t recommend them being any further than 5m.  They should flow with the ground height not be level to the naked eye, especially if you have undulating land.


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3. Choose the right buckles for your strainers

We have straight attaching and 45deg bent – if you’re not sure, ask one of our friendly staff    Very importantly attach the end buckle the right way around they should sit flat to the post and facing the direction your fence is going to run. Do not wrap the rail through the bracket and around the post (like we have seen some people do!).  We have a handy tool for making the job of bending the rail to fit into the buckles much easier.

4. Please don’t drag the rail out

Make sure you give yourself some length then attach to the end buckle and roll it out.  It is handy to have someone walking behind you slipping the rail into the top or side brackets as you go. Also, make sure the rail is not twisted as it goes into the brackets. It is annoying to get to the end and find a twist back near the start!! It may be worth investing in one of our rail spinners to assist you.

5. Use Tek screws in top brackets

When attaching the brackets to the posts use one Tek screw in the top of the bracket first. Then slip the rail into it and screw off the bottom of the bracket. Do this before the rail is pulled tight to avoid breaking any of the brackets.

6. Spooler Placement

For extra safety, aesthetics and to help prevent sagging and added weight to the rail place all the tensioning spoolers close to a post. (about 20 to 30 cm away)

7. Fence Tensioning

When it comes to tensioning your fence, don’t have your Horserail too tight. It is best to have one full rotation of the spooler before the rail gets to the right tension. This will eliminate any breakages of the wire inside the rail.

8. Attach the electrics at the End Buckle

It has a little screw in it for that purpose. Keep the underground lead-out wire close to the strainer post and attach to the bottom rail (or the lowest rail that you want electric). You will need 2.5mm underground lead-out wire for electrifying all your rails together.

9. Gate Sizes

When choosing your gates, make sure they are a minimum of 3m (optimal 3.6m or 4.2m) as this will allow you to get most machinery and implements into your paddocks. When installing the posts for the gates, make sure you are as accurate as possible with your spacing to ensure there are no large gaps between the post and the hung gate where a horse could easily get its legs caught. Whilst hanging, make sure the top of the gate is level with the top of the fence at both ends.

Even if you have a contactor building your fence for you it pays to have some knowledge of how our fencing works. That way you’ll know if something isn’t working or going to be finished to our high standard. Remember the old saying measure twice, cut once!  We want you to be 110% satisfied with your Horserail Fence and for it to be Done Once and Done Right.