Electric fencing simplified

It really pays to electrify your horse fencing. Horses quickly learn that fences are not electrified, they even seem to have an uncanny knowledge of when the electrics aren’t working or they are turned off.  It really is best to set it all up properly right from the start. Don’t wait until a few weeks or months later when you’ve installed your fence, thinking it will save time and money. The small cost to get electric fencing from the outset is worth it.

Our flexible rail is electrified so there is no need for dangerous standoffs. We don’t like them as they are just another thing for your horse to get caught in. Our flexible rail or electric coated wire is the safest electric fencing option for your horse.

Firstly you’ll need to join your End Buckles. The buckles have small screws in them to allow for easy connection between the buckles with black lead out cable. Measure and cut the lead out cable just slightly longer than the gap between your two rails. An inch or two longer should be plenty.
Carefully strip each end of the lead-out cable just enough to bend over and hook the screw on the End Buckle. A decent set of pliers will be helpful for this job. Hook the lead out cable onto one screw on the bottom of the top End Buckle and the top of the lower End Buckle. Repeat this process for each End Buckle.

The electrics will work better if you connect both ends of your fence and under your gate.

When going under gates or laneways, we have special dual-core double under gate cable that carries the positive and earth wires in a poly coating that can be directly buried underground without the need for conduits. This is simply hooked to the bottom or lowest End Buckle. In the same way as the black lead out cable. Make sure that you keep the cable just long enough to comfortably run the length of the gate or width of the laneway and straight up to the End Buckle. Having big loopy leftovers is dangerous for both you and your horse to get caught in or trip over.

When choosing an energizer for your property, mains power run units are usually cheaper.  You are better to have a unit that is bigger than what you think you may need. We are able to help you choose the correct size for your property.

When hooking up your energizer, if it is not positioned near and End Buckle, it can be as simple as stripping a small amount of plastic off the bottom wire if the rail, attaching some black lead out cable to the bare wire on the rail and running it up to your energizer.

Switches are an integral part of any electric fence system. From being able to isolate areas of your property to saving time not having to go back to the main unit to turn it on or off. Multiple switches on larger projects also enable you to fault find easier or work on your fence should you have a problem. The small cost of a switch well and truly pays for itself over the life of your fence.

Earthing is one of the most crucial elements of the fencing system. If your system is not earthed correctly your electrics will not work properly, if at all. Not only should the energizer have a minimum of 3 earth stakes, but your fencing system should also have earth stakes-placed strategically around the farm. If you are in extremely dry conditions you could also look at an earth return system. Contact us for more information on earthing.

If your unit is in a shed or away from your fences you will need enough under gate cable to run underground to the closest fence.

We are often asked what is the best electric fencing unit to use. We have found over the years that the Nemtek energizer units have been the most reliable and easy to use. They have a large range of differently sized units to suit all size jobs.  If you have a large property with lots of fencing, it may be better and cheaper to run a few small units rather than 1 large unit.  These days, Solar powered units are very popular and a great option.  We have a great range of electric fence units available to suit any property.